Oh Brunei - You Beauty

Brunei is a bit like when you try a new cake for the first time but aren’t quite sure if it’s going to be a terrible mistake. The delight of course comes when it turns out to be delicious and well delightful. This fortunately was how it came out for me on my visit to Bandar Seri Begawan, the capital city of the Sovereign Sultanate of Brunei Darussalam – there’s an impressive mouthful for you.

I mentioned before that the airport is a bit underwhelming at  the moment due to the renovations but the departure area wasn’t quite so dreer. I had a bit of a hiccup as I hadn’t organised a transit visa but was able to pay $5 and all was good. I was through all the bureaucracy pretty quickly and out into the hall. I couldn’t see anyone obvious looking to pick me up. For the longest time I’ve always dreamt of being one of those people who step out into an airport and someone is standing with a sign saying ‘Mr T Nalder’, oh VIP. It took a bit of squinting for me to see a small sign that said ‘Mr TieryN Jubilee Hotel’. Close enough.  

The driver greeted me and we walked out onto the concourse and boy did I quickly realise what I’d been missing for 19 days in the cold – the heat was intense and the humidity overwhelming.

A bit of amusement when he wandered off to get his exit slip for the car park, came back and wandered away with the wrong person. I hadn’t taken a lot of notice of what he looked liked but I did think ‘he looks like my driver’. Of course realisation hit him when the other guy went off in another direction as my driver reached our mini bus. From the distance I watched in and the confusion on my driver’s face. We waved at each other and I walked down, we both had a bit of a laugh. A good start.

A couple of stops before we got to the hotel. A couple he was to pick up at the shopping mall failed to appear but a young lady was waiting for him at the Mosque. All this made it seem that the hotel

was quite a distance and we drove through some pretty rough looking areas so I held some anxiety as we drove into the driveway of the rather dreer looking façade of the hotel – quite unlike the internet photo. Oh dear, breathe A very efficient check in and up to the fourth floor to what turned out to be a fairly decent room with a somewhat less than decent view but oh well. A large bathroom with  BATH was probably the only area that needed some extra attention - grubby grouting mainly. The aircon needed turning down and eventually all was comfortable. The handy mini  mart down in the lobby was reasonably priced although not overly well stocked variety wise. There is a café/breakfast room which I used on the second night.

The breakfast was pretty scant, no orange juice available and toast not available separately, no cereals on offer just a cooked meal and tea or coffee really but adequate. I didn't sleep very well on the first night and was a bit groggy for the half day tour. It was just Jimmy the affable guide and driver and me so very relaxed as we drove around seeing the magnificent mosques, the incredible
Royal Regalia Museum, the fishing village and even a shopping centre. The mosques were closed as the preparations for Brunei National Day 30th anniversary celebrations were underway. One of the Mosques is considered the largest in the world in terms of capacity. Similarly the Royal Palace is the

largest residential palace in the world (with a dome of gold made of Aussie gold - I did ask if we could have it back).


The people of this sovereign state are friendly, fun and warm. I sense there is a lot going on under the surface and they don't take it all too seriously. It is a strict Muslim nation and their 'loving leader' Sultan His Majesty Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkian Mu'izzaddin Waddaulah rules the country and Parliament very strictly. Some of the laws are repressive and antiquated and not befitting of a generous, caring nation no matter it's philosophical or faith base. I knew to be wary of commenting on this or querying too much but it is a shame there has to be the negative side to such a lovely place.

This is an oil rich nation, it's what feeds the country. The Sultan 'owns' the oil fields (on behalf of his people of course)and is amongst the richest people in the world. Petrol is 53cents a litre (no, not a misprint), there are no income taxes although a few levies/fees here and there. There is no debt as such, a seriously low crime rate (some sharia law infringements)and a manageable population growth rate - 450,000 as of 2013. It sits as a sovereign state with the Borneo mass (similar to Malaysia)and acts independently in the region but a strong partner in ASEAN.

It turned out the hotel was only a five minute humid, hot walk from the centre of things so I walked around a bit on Friday (interrupted by the two hour close down of everything for Friday prayers) and took a bus out to the fabulous Gadong Mall. This bus (Central route) was a great way to see the sights too and would be a good way to get on and off and visit different 'sights'. The main things are all in a fairly small area but one or two are just a bit beyond a comfortable walk in the heat.

I'd certainly recommend Brunei as a good stopover point or somewhere to visit if you're in Kuala Lumpur or even Singapore. It's not exactly geared for tourism on a big scale (maybe hesitation about opening themselves up for 'commentary' from foreigners?) but they are a welcoming people. And not every destination has to five star does it? I think as long as it gives me something unique I'm satisfied. You might like to have a look at the website: www.Makputeradelima.wix.com/brunei-tourism  One of the partners in this site chatted to me on my wander and I appreciated her generosity and candour and I know she'd eagerly welcome any visitors who contacted her.

Back to the hotel and an interesting 'encounter' with one of the locals (ask me when you see me). Caught the hotel bus back out to the airport and bid Bandar and Brunei farewell and headed home.

It was good to get home and a day or so later as I walked the wide streets of Melbourne and observed the big sky of this fair land I realised I'd had a good trip, weather aside, seen fabulous, amazing places (oh those Houses of Parliament, Bruges, Ghent, Brussels, Lovely Lincoln), amazing theatre with 'The Weir', a couple of lonely moments but more terrific moments to add to my privileged life.

I feel travel weary and who knows if there'll be any more trips. All I know for certain is the gratitude and sense of awe that I even went. I don't know why I broke my foot and was stopped from travelling last year, I'm sure it 'meant' something. Whatever, the recovery has been good and given me this reward, what could be better?