Friday, March 16, 2012

My Washington Post (ah yes comedy gold)

Washington is a very spread out city with a population of around half a million. I didn't see any houses, apart from the couple of 'historical' sites, all apartments but certainly  no real skyscrapers which I have become accustomed to in NY. It has a real sense of freshness to the place even though it figures so prominently in American history, particularly of course around the civil war and the formation of the constitution and declaration of independence etc. That's all before you realise it's the home of the nation, the congress and the President 'live' here.

The 'majesty' of the Republic and the sometimes quaintness of history is all on display side by side with the homeless, people sleeping over the air grates, bus stop shelters or any corner they can find, their belongings moved around in shopping carts or big bags. How can the most influential Western country and the most powerful politician in the western world actually let that continue? The second person to speak to me, as I stepped out of the magnificent Union Station (the Yanks give good train station) was a man saying he was a veteran and wanted a few dollars to buy a meal. He wasn't the last to ask.

I really like Washington, it seems very liveable. The Metro works well and logically, it's cheap and, apart from one grump, the staff were all very helpful and pleasant. The stations are clean and not cramped and the trains comfortable and built to allow for tourists with cases. There was one incident on my first trip when a bloke went absolutely 'postal' at another bloke. Whilst unpleasant and aggressive it was actually laughable but looking around at other people in the carriage there was noticeable anxiety.

The Harrington Hotel was really lovely, I was on the top floor and apparently the hotel was a landmark - of which there are many in DC. A large room with a nice tiled bathroom with a bath!!! Two restaurants attached so breakfast was available in one of them. It did feel rather grand there and I was pleased to see the Australian flag was one of the ones on the poles outside...I imagine the flags displayed are determined by where guests are from at any particular time.

The hotel was situated in the Penn quarter downtown so I had the shopping area in one direction and all the monuments along Pennsylvania Avenue in the other. Very handy but didn't mean I didn't do a deal of walking. The weather was warm and the blooms were out (as was the population) which encouraged walking but I jumped on the Metro whenever I needed to get out a bit.

My overview of the capital came from a bus tour 'Taste of DC'; I was due to do it at 10.30 on the first full day but such a tour did not exist! So moved to 1.00 and it ended up being a private tour, no one else booked. The driver was a bit of fun and had a cliched African American accent and lots of 'mmhmm,  that's right' punctuating his sentences. A lot of places had been 'architected' by someone was amusing. Drop offs at the magnificent Capitol, the White House and the Martin Luther King memorial. Really enjoyed it and a bit of bonus because many streets were closed due to the marathon and St Pats parade which meant driving around quite a bit to find clear routes.

When the early tour didn't come off I went out to the Lincoln Memorial which was out near the George Washington University and a bit of a hike from the Metro, but I did pass the Watergate and the Lincoln Centre. Lincoln just as magnificent as it appears in movies and quite a thrill to see. On either side of the statue are the words of both his inaugural speeches so very impressive. From the steps of this monument Martin Luther King made his 'I have a dream' speech, something which planted in me a philosophy I have tried to live by. Imagine standing in the same spot as that speech was made? Good God almighty I am living some kind of dream.

The Smithsonian Institute is not one building but the collective name given to a number of galleries and museums throughout DC covering art, photography, natural history, American History, portraits and other 'sciences'. Smithson was a Brit who never set foot on American soil and who commanded that no one should have to pay to enter any of his buildings and thus you can see treasures such as the Hope Diamond, the original Star Spangled Banner and various Presidential artifacts for nix. The Castle is a lovely building and information centre with a gorgeous garden, including the 'moon garden. With Magnolias and paper bushes in bloom it was divine. I particularly liked the dresses of the First Ladies and the original flag.

The Willard Hotel typifies the history that flows out of Washington. It's often called the 'America's Hotel', Martin Luther King finished his I have a dream speech there, the Battle Hymn of the Republic was written and performed there, the National Press Club was formed there, Lincoln and family lived there prior to his inauguration and President Grant (who often retreated there for some peace) invented the term 'lobbyist' there.

A ten minute walk from the hotel along Pennsylvania Ave was Newseum a museum over six levels which opened in the last couple of years dedicated to the history of news gathering. It has stacks of old newspapers, areas devoted to correspondents and the way stories are filed and news spread through media.They also have all sorts of 'treasures' such as the Unabomber's cabin, the door from the Watergate that the burglars broke through, debris from the World Trade Center (particularly the TV antenna), a section of the Berlin Wall,Dillinger's gun and many more. They have a great 4D film and some interesting videos on different themes. I spent a couple of hours in this really fascinating place.

Another big tick(et) item in Washington for me was Arlington Cemetery. I had almost convinced myself not to go because the map suggested the cemetery was quite a distance from the Metro exit, it was a very warm day and I frankly was really flagging. In the end I thought well I can at least hop on the Metro and suss it out. A 15 minute ride out (well it is on another state - Virginia)and what do you know, the entrance to the National cemetery was only about a five minute walk.

Inside there is a bus that takes you around the cemetery stopping at 'highlights'. While I was very thankful for this I am not entirely comfortable about a bus with commentary and a load of tourists is really in keeping with one of the most solemn and sacred places in the nation. Nonetheless I was pleased that i didn't have to traverse some of the hills around and soon we stopped at the Kennedy grave site. On a small mound with an eternal flame, Jack, Jackie, infant Patrick and the stillborn unnamed daughter are buried together. A few metres away the graves of Bobby and Ted are marked with white wooden crosses (their request). The Kennedy assassinations (particularly Jack's) are a very strong part  of my childhood so again a significant milestone for me to be standing at this place.While my view of Kennedy has changed in time and with knowledge I still find the assassination and all that followed a very sad time.

Only one other President is buried at Arlington - Taft and he has a rather grand grave. Most President's are buried in their home towns. Also saw the grave of Audie Murphy and Arlington House, belonging to Robert E Lee's family but lost due to a rental payment dispute. The land then became 'free' and the government put it to good use. The house has a couple of chilling outbuildings - slave houses, a reminder of those dark days in Yankee history.

There are over 400,000 people interred in Arlington and about 25 are added each week. When one looks out and sees all those thousands of white stone markers each representing a serving officer who has died you can't help but be affected. For me I am bewildered that a President wouldn't go there look out and know, just know that war is so very wasteful and shameful when it makes life this dispensable. Too, too many lost souls, too too many fractured lives and families.

I think the few days in Washington was enough, I had tasted a lot and really loved it all but another day there and who knows? Mind you I have left a part of me there - Two shirts and a windcheater in fact. No big deal but of course they were handy to have and save on laundry. I wonder if the hotel will contact me?

I dragged the case back to Union Station to find my train delayed by 30 minutes. Once on board we were told Business Class had no air con. Given it had been travelling for three hours already and through temps in the high 20's you can imagine how uncomfortable it was and how well I took it all. There were other carriages which were cooler but no suggestion that the extra we'd paid to go Business was going to be refunded or that space might be found for us in other carriages.So, soggy and grumpy I arrived back in New York at 6 and walked to the hotel in 31st Street. I have to say it is the best of the hotels, like a European hotel with cage lift and all. I was concerned about being on the 'other side' of Central Park but it's right near Lexington and Park so perfectly pleasant...the Empire State and Chrysler Buildings are both within a short walk away.

Off topic slightly I wanted to mention a couple of tele shows I saw while in Washington; the first was the Oprah interview with Whitney Houston's family, compelling although a tad too long. The other was 'Game Change' the telemovie about Sarah Palin's run as Vice Presidential candidate(and scary likeness by Julieanne Moore)- compelling also for different reasons, it was very well made at times moving but also some genuine 'OH MY GOD' moments. We'll never know how much (little) truth there was in it but I enjoyed it.

The Popular Bonus Pics


 Metro

The mighty Potomac
looking to the Washington Monument

Martin Luther King Memorial

The balcony box at Booth Theater

2 comments:

  1. My understanding is that no building in Washington, at least in a designated area, is allowed to be taller than the Washington Monument.

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  2. great articles Br looking forward to catching up on everything when you're back.... in fact you're flying as we speak!

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