Tuesday, February 11, 2014

Mid Way

At the half way point of the journey and something I've been looking forward to, my day trip to Ghent and Brugges.

Picked up at the hotel around 8.45 and out into incredibly strong, cold wind and onto the bus. After several more pick ups the bus is practically full although I do have a seat to myself (wearing the same socks three days running paid off). Our guide is a Ghent local so he knows his stuff.

Ghent is a very compact pretty place about an hour and a bit from Brussels in the direction of Ostende and formerly a coastal town (the coast line disappeared over time but many of the industries still deliver and use Ghent to export from. This town was famous for Flemish cloth and tapestries and is fairy tale beautiful. Cobbled streets and cute buildings contrasted with the enormous cathedral and towers.  Van Eyck's altar
piece the Adoration of the Mystic Lamb is kept at the Cathedral although it is one of the most stolen art works of Europe. In fact one panel is still missing after the whole thing was nicked by the Nazis and recovered in a salt mine in Austria (see 'The Monuments Men' movie). Stunning cathedral in a town about a thousand years old...ah yes.

Just a short ride onto Brugges and whereas Ghent is quite compact, Brugges is spread out takes a bit of getting around although mostly walkable. Well walk around the convent (monastery) area where the nuns started the Belgian lace tradition. Sadly this tradition has all but died off now and is mostly mass produced although there are one or two artisans still around and in the Brugges. area.

The magnificent old two square was worth seeing, albeit in the rain and cold wind. Even that passed at times and the light was beautiful on the stunning buildings and cobbles.Quite touristy which is a shame but we soldier on. What i think makes this town very amenable and attractive is the preponderance of chocolate shops and a fair few of them handmade. There are the chains (Godiva, Leonidas to name a couple) but I guess it's about what is unique rather than what is popular - of course they aren't necessarily mutually exclusive. They are rather fond of dark chocolate and it is of course the elite of chocolate but I'm afraid I'm a fan of the lighter creamier varieties. We had a nice stop at a shop and given a bit of a history of chocolate making in the area and then 'invited' to purchase. I am fond of popping into chocolatiers here because you are invariably offered a 'sample', very civilized greeting if you ask me.

I'd had lunch in a little cafe near where the horse drawn carriages set off (as delightful a tourist rip off as the venetian gondoliers apparently but by gee they were reeling those gullible tourists in this day)A very tasty ham and cheese omelet warmed me up and sustained me through the much walking we did for the rest of the stay. 

We also enjoyed a boat rip around the canals which was a good way of seeing large parts of Brugges in a short time and a good vantage point. The sun was out so not as cold as it might have been.

In the old square is the church tower that featured in the film 'In Brugges' and on the boat trip we saw the hotel also in the film (where he jumps out of the window if you saw it). The BBC series 'The White Queen' was also filmed in Brugges.

Time was getting on and so we set off back to Brussels. I wanted to see the Grand Markt at night and so I was dropped off not far. Beautiful sight to see, it really is a 'Grand Place'.

Walked back to the hotel, nearly being blown away by the incredible wind.

The next morning I didn't have to check out until midday so had a sleep in, a late breakfast and then went for a final walk around this most wonderful, intelligent and welcoming city. It has some dark and dodgy spots, rather too many beggars and it is a bit expensive. the people seem reserved but warm and I suspect they are
self deprecating in their humour which may or may not serve them well.

After checking out it's really only a five minute walk (even shorter if the incredible wind had been a tail wind) to Gare du Noord. Although a rather grand facade I have to say the interior was very dodgy. Anyway the Eurolines bus terminal is downstairs and the check in was pretty smooth. about a 45 minute wait for departure and a somewhat shambolic bus boarding, luggage storing, finding a seat etc. Nevertheless we set off heading for Calais.

All went well until we arrived at Calais to find the eurotunnel was delayed with boardings by up to two hours. We would apparently normally just have a half hour delay while boarding but we ended up there for an hour and a half and even allowed to get off the bus and partake in the high quality, well priced goods and food items in the building attached.

Earlier we had been through the rather comical procedure of French passport control...off the bus, queue up, back on the bus then drive ten metres and get off the bus for British passport control. I always have a tiresome moment with the Brits which I NEVER have with any other country. Anyway after answering banal questions it was through there and back on the bus.

The driver added to the humour at one point. After being parked for an hour or so he drives off and then just basically does a circuit to get back to the same spot we drove away from...odd.

Reminds me of something that happened when I checked into the Hotel Siru in Brussels. I mentioned there were three hotels in one with one reception desk BUT a separate queue for each. When I arrived there was a guy at the Hotel Colonies desk and he acknowledged me but said he couldn't check me in, that I had to wait for the Siru receptionist. So I waited for her to check the guy in front of me in and stepped forward...only for her to move away and,yep you guessed it, the guy from the Colonies desk steps across and serves me. Hilarious.

A warm welcome back to London with the bus stopping at what currently passes for the coach station...it's all under reconstruction so you walk out of a garage into a back street. If this was your first arrival in London I'm not sure it would thrill you.

Underground to Gloucester Road and I found my way easily to the apartment office for my next seven night stay. Seeing as I last stayed at these apartments about 20 years ago I was quite impressed with finding them. The check in was easy and the apartment is lovely. I was supposed to be in a studio apartment but, as luck would have it, they are all being painted and I am 'upgraded' to a double room. Nice and most acceptable. I could have  been quite satisfied if it hadn't been up four flights of stairs but hey my heart and lungs needed a work out. Isn't sweating on a cold night an interesting phenomena?

Tomorrow Oxford.



 

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